Accessory FuseBox Kit.

This is how I *now* supply the kit,

It comes with a Bosch micro replay underneath which links to the key such that all 6 fuse tracks turn on and off with the key. 10 GA wire to the battery. A good place to mount it is on the right side, next to the battery. The unbilical (shown in grey) routes up to the fairting under the speed/tach are and has 3 fused leads along with the trigger wire to turn it on/off. There are 3 open tracks on the fuse bank for accessories that are not mounted up front. Comes with the terminals needed to wire up the 3 open tracks.

Kit comes with screws for mounting (they come with it when I get it, you may not want to drill into your frame), tie wraps for mounting the fusebox or dressing the power lead, spade connectors for each fuse teminal and a selection of nearly all the different value fuses from 3 amp to 30 amp along with a backup fuse for each value.

This is the best solution I found after many many hours of looking. My recommendation is to run a headlight bypass kit, either one from DDL or one you make up yourself to remove that current flow from the existing fuse box. That leaves those fuses as the main circuit fuses and they will be dealing with less current which will minimize the chance of overheating and melting the fusebox.

Then use this kit to fuse any new accessories and to clean up your battery area if you have already added accessories.

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